I am often fascinated by the numerous prints and patterns in textiles around the world and their symbolism. After a fair bit of research and planning which prints I’d love to wear for my own wedding day I finally settled on doing a blog featuring symbols on fabrics found in India.
One is enamoured by the opulence of threadwork, glittering pearls and sequins found in the shops of Kalki or the bridal halls of Sabyasachi but what enthrals me is the richness in prints of the range of fauna from the gargantuan elephant to the demure peacock.
Let’s delve in to better understand the significance and symbolism of these profound fauna.
The Mighty Elephant
The elephant is commonly found on many Indian bridal gowns representing affluence and tradition. Historically, elephants were revered by the affluent as a show of strength and power useful in battle. In fact, many period paintings depicting the various regimes in India depicted elephants in armour and embellished caparisons too.
The first record of imperial decorated elephants was in 2500 BCE in the Indus Valley Civilization during the Mohenjo-Daro period. In Indian mythology, the elephant is revered as celestial due to its’ many associations with deities such as Ganesh and Lakshmi. Elephants were not only fawned over by native Indians, however, were equally of awe by the Mughals and Alexander the Great.
Fast forward to the 19th century, under British colonial rule, the last record of an elephant spectacle was witnessed in 1911, referred to as the ‘Court of Delhi’ in which the Viceroy along with all 48 kings from across the country reached the coronation park to salute the Emperor and Empress of India.
The Preening Peacock
The Peacock in Indian folklore symbolizes beauty, fertility, and auspiciousness. In the Hindu faith, the peacock is associated with the Goddess Saraswati who represents wisdom, learning and is considered a patron of the arts.
In thread work, one can see two representations of the peacock- one with its’ feathers folded focusing on its’ astute senses and its power: the second, with its feather’s spread highlighting its’ majestic beauty and pride. The peacock motif was particularly prevalent during Mughal art with intricate designs used to adorn palace walls and royal garments.
The peacock’s feathers have not only been used within the fashion industry to adorn clothes or accessorize jewellery, but it has also been used to decorate the chariots of kings and queens in ancient India.
In Kasuti embroidery of Karnataka South India, a geometric peacock is often used, as it strongly insinuates beauty and passion. In Rabari embroidery of Kutch, Kantha of Bengal it is thought to embrace grace- fullness.
The Poetic Parrot
Representations of the parrot in Indian mythology can be seen to be associated with the Goddess Andal, the Tamil poet and saint, as well as Goddess Meenakshi (Parvati) at the Madurai Meenakshi Temple depicted holding a parrot in her right hand.
Parrots are much loved by Indian designers and are prominently featured in summer collections. They are often referred to as the storyteller in several art forms and are among the favourites of Gujarat, West Bengal and Rajasthan textile producers. It is one of the most heavily used motifs weaving stories to relate ancient sagas such as the love story of Lord Krishna and Radha.
The Gander of Geese
The geese motif or Hamsa motif has been pervasive in Indian art since the Sunga period (3rd–1st century BC) when it was most famously depicted as a frieze decor on the Vajrasana, the site of Buddha’s enlightenment at Bodhgaya, eastern India.
Whilst we see the various representations of fauna in Indian textiles, it is important to also note that regional representation or fabric type also highlights these faunas in different measure. Ie. Motifs in Chikankari fabric feature delicate flora and fauna such as the peacock and parrot, motifs used in Kasuti feature temple architecture, swans, squirrels, deer and elephants, Chamba Rumals on the other hand feature prancing horses and roaring tigers.
Nonetheless, significance and symbolism are the cornerstones of motifs.
Do check out our oxidized jewellery collection and scarves featuring some of the fauna described above 😊