I’ve always been a big fan of Shibori prints especially on jackets… granted I didn’t really know it was classified as Shibori or even how painstaking the process was! So naturally, as I write the post on Shibori, its origins and how it diverges from abstract-tie-dyes, I have come to LOVE this labour-intensive resist-dye process even more!
Shibori comes from the Japanese word Shiboru which means to wring or squeeze, steps that go into creating Shibori notwithstanding an array of techniques spanning folding and clamping (Itajime Shibori), pleating, spider-web designs (Kumo Shibori), knotting and even stitching (Nui Shibori) of the fabric!
Though interestingly enough, Shibori even though edified as a Japanese craft spanning over 1300 years, stems from Chinese culture which during the 8th century, was brought into Japan during the Edo Period. Since then, Shibori has predominantly proliferated in the Japanese town of Arimatsu in the Aichi Prefecture since 1608.
You can now witness the mastery of Shibori through rising UK fashion star Ulla Johnson as well as Kolkata based designer, Nupur Kanoi but the prints don’t just stop at the runways, they extend to include homeware items too!
What is it the allure of Shibori?
Imperfections! That’s right, the beauty in imperfections adds to the allure of Shibori making no two Shibori fabrics alike, a concept colloquially known in Japanese culture as Wabi-Sabi. That’s not to say that Shibori is purely abstract in its’ techniques, in fact a true Shibori relies on the harmony of the fabric and dye as well as techniques employed by the artisan to achieve their vision.
Shibori Techniques
Speaking of technical intricacies in Shibori, I personally gravitate towards the threaded technique of Nui Shibori whose approach creates delicate floral and geometric patterns as well as popular Japanese sea life. However, there is a wide range of techniques and artists who have propelled the art of Shibori further:-
- In her 2013 Fall Collection, Carolina Herrera featured Kumo Shibori on a deep blue floor-length dress. The abstract floral-like prints stand out amidst the deep blue hue.
- Miura Shibori relies heavily on continuous binding of loops to create patterns that reflect the ripples in water bodies. Miura is commonly found in home-designs such as Japandi styles which highlight the sense of merge and flow.
- Kanoko Shiori, a technique so ‘dotty and delicate’ was favoured by ladies in the Imperial Court during the Heian Period (794-1185). Kanoko was originally produced in Kyoto by skilled artisans and was considered a luxury, subject to sumptuary laws! Kanoko shibori’s ‘fawn dot’ look is most pronounced in light shades or works of art which highlight the beauty of these artisanal skills.
- Arashi Shibori which relies on the stretching and binding around wooden or copper poles to create vein-like appearances is perhaps one of the more common techniques.
- Itajime Shibori creates more robust and bold patterns such as a tessellation of shapes through a process of clamping.
Shibori can be split into three core categories- Kokechi (tied or bound resists), Rokechi (wax resists) and Kyokechi (clamped resists).
Shibori was historically created using indigo resplendent in nature and had by some unwritten rule taken a uni-colour approach, making it starkly different from other tie-dye processes.
Should you wish to witness Shibori in its full glory across different formats, then head on down to Arimatsu, Japan, where they hold an annual Shibori festival in June celebrating the art and the town!
Watch our space for upcoming blogs on Ikat and Bandhani as we delve deeper into those styles of regional tie-dye techniques! In the meantime, you can explore our collection showcasing these techniques here as well as follow us on Instagram! Use the code WELCOME10 to get 10% off your first order!